Your Guide to Vitamin C in Skincare
Your Guide to Vitamin C in Skincare
We all know there's certain essential skincare products and ingredients we should have in our line-up. There's no doubt that Vitamin C is one of the key players and touted as a must-have ingredient. It's widely known that Vitamin C serums are one of the most coveted steps in morning skincare routines. But do you know why it's such a powerhouse for the skin? Read on for all the benefits of Vitamin C, the forms of it you can apply, and which Vitamin C skincare is best for you.
Vitamin C serum is by far one of the most recommended skincare products in the beauty industry. It's rare I find a brand that doesn't have at least one Vitamin C serum in its range, and I have yet to find a brand that doesn't have any form of Vitamin C in some of its products.
It's quite simply put that this super antioxidant is a powerhouse ingredient and one of the most well researched skincare ingredients in the industry with proven benefits for all skin types.
It's not too difficult to find this holy-grail ingredient in skincare. Vitamin C is included in many formulas, but Vitamin C serums in particular are the most-popular pick because serums are the powerhouse of a skin routine with high potencies of active ingredients, and generally smaller molecular sizes to allow for deeper penetration within the skin.
Why is Vitamin C so essential for the skin?
It's most popularly known for protecting against environmental aggressors that our skin is exposed to daily such as pollution and UV-induced sun damage. Its ability to neutralize free radicals makes it s super-hero for the skin (think of free radicals as predators that attack your cells and degrade and destroy them, they're bad news).
Essentially, if you're a human living on earth, you'll benefit from Vitamin C at any age. Of course, we also love Vitamin C for its ability to improve pigmentation and uneven skin tone, diminish signs of aging, and boost collagen production.
It's also important to remember Vitamin C serums have come a long way, and if you're using an amazing Vitamin C serum, you'll find it includes other antioxidants and ingredients that work in synergy to help with a host of other skin concerns including signs of aging, elasticity, redness, inflammation, texture, sun damage, scarring, and more. It's all about finding a Vitamin C serum that targets multiple concerns, rather than only focusing on Vitamin C as the singular ingredient in the formula.
A Quick 101 on L-Ascorbic Acid (the purest and most popularly known form of Vitamin C)
Vitamin C is delivered in a variety of ways within a formula, and one of the most well-known is L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C in its purest form). This water-soluble form of Vitamin C is a powerhouse. If you're new to high potencies of L-Ascorbic Acid you may find that your skin may go through a period of acclimation when initially being introduced into a routine. It may cause an initial sense of activity on the skin when applied, which should subside over a period of time as the skin adjusts to potency and frequency of use. This is a normal response, which is why it's recommended to start with a lower potency of L-Ascorbic Acid before graduating. For example, IS Clinical vitamin C serums range from 15% to 20% in potency.
It's also important to note that L-Ascorbic Acid is unstable, and has the ability to oxidize over time if not used with frequency or stored optimally. This is actually why many L-Ascorbic Acid serums are in dark brown or blue glass bottles, which are recommended to be used within 6-9 months from opening. It's best to store away from hot environments such as steamy washrooms or sunny vanities. If your Vitamin C started out looking clear to yellow in tone but is now looking more copper to brown in tone, it's likely oxidized and lost its effectiveness. The formulation is everything, so you may find that quality L-Ascorbic Acid serums will have a higher price point, which is a worthwhile investment.
your quick guide
WHICH L-ASCORBIC ACID SERUM IS BEST FOR YOUR SKIN?
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Ideal for:
Anyone dealing with inflammatory skin conditions such as acne, rosacea, redness, and sensitivity.
The skin concerns it treats:
Acne, Aging, Inflammation, Redness
The key ingredients:
15% L-Ascorbic Acid (vitamin C)
Retinol (vitamin A)
Vitamin E
Olive Leaf Extract
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Ideal for:
Those concerned with acne scarring, pigmentation, sun damage and uneven skin tone.
The skin concerns it treats:
Aging, Pigmentation, Uneven Skin Tone
The key ingredients:
15% L-Ascorbic Acid (vitamin C)
Arbutin & Mushroom Extract
Centella Asiatica
Copper Tripeptide Growth Factor
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Ideal for:
Those concerned with diminishing visible signs of aging and sun damage, while improving firmness and skin tone.
The skin concerns it treats:
Aging, Hydration, Laxity, Pigmentation, Texture, Uneven Skin Tone
The key ingredients:
20% L-Ascorbic Acid (vitamin C)
Superoxide Dismutase (SOD)
Kakadu Plum Extract
Extremozymes®
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Ideal for:
Those concerned with dark circles and signs of aging - best layered beneath an eye cream for a powerful duo.
The skin concerns it treats:
Aging, Dark Circles, Puffiness, Uneven Skin Tone
The key ingredients:
7.5% L-Ascorbic Acid (vitamin C)
Hyaluronic Acid
Copper Tripeptide Growth Factor
Side Note: One of the biggest mistakes I see made with L-Ascorbic Acid-based serums is when someone tries to prolong the product by using fewer drops per day. Generally, a serum should last anywhere from 3 to 4 months, so make the most out of your skinvestment and use it effectively to soak up all the amazing benefits. I generally recommend applying approximately six drops to the face and neck.
A Quick 101 on Vitamin C Derivatives (highly effective forms of Vitamin C for all skin types)
If your skin is especially dry or sensitive, you may find that L-Ascorbic Acid may cause irritation. Instead opt for synthesized Vitamin C derivatives, which are popularly found in serums and creams.
There are a variety of forms of Vitamin C derivatives - including: ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitoyl, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, and sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP).
In fact, chances are you're already using skincare-containing Vitamin C derivatives. Not only are these forms of Vitamin C more stable, but they're easily accepted by the cells, highly effective, and gentler on the skin (also making them perfect for reactive and sensitive skin types).
Best of all, you can layer these forms of Vitamin C within a routine without worrying about irritation of the skin since they're found in a wide range of products besides serum. In addition, these formulas have the added perk of also being able to be used twice daily, both morning and night, whereas L-Ascorbic Acid serums are generally recommended for morning only. This makes Vitamin C derivatives so beneficial and easy to incorporate into any routine.
your quick guide
Which vitamin c derivative is best for your skin?
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Ideal for:
Those concerned with correcting visible signs of aging - this topical multi-vitamin will create healthy and firmer skin. Mix with Antioxidant Defence Creme for a powerhouse duo.
The skin concerns it treats:
Aging, Hydration, Laxity, Uneven Skin Tone
The key ingredients:
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (vitamin C)
Retinyl Propionate (vitamin A)
Tocopheryl Acetate (vitamin E)
Matrixyl® 3000 (peptides)
Dermaxyl®
Green Tea Extract
Rosemary Leaf Extract
Lycopene
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Ideal for:
Revitalizing lackluster skin by up to 90% while instantly smoothing the skin and boosting skin radiance.
The skin concerns it treats:
Aging, Hydration, Lackluster, Texture, Uneven Skin Tone
The key ingredients:
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (vitamin C)
Cellular Prime Complex:
Triple DNA
Liposome RNA
Peptides+
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Ideal for:
Those concerned with preventing and correcting visible signs of aging while improving hydration, plumpness, texture and tone.
The skin concerns it treats:
Aging, Hydration, Laxity, Texture, Uneven Skin Tone
The key ingredients:
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (vitamin C)
Superoxide Dismutase (SOD)
Hyaluronic Acid
Copper Tripeptide Growth Factor
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Ideal for:
An introductory product for all ages that will help keep skin healthy and hydrated - a topical multi-vitamin for the skin.
The skin concerns it treats:
Aging, Hydration, Uneven Skin Tone
The key ingredients:
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (vitamin C)
Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A)
Tocopheryl Acetate (vitamin E)
Beta-Carotene
Pro-Vitamin B5
Green Tea Extract
Rooibos Leaf Extract
Lastly, while Vitamin C is the most popular antioxidant, it's not the only one. As a rule of thumb, I like to say, Vitamin C is amazing but don't let it be the only antioxidant in your routine that matters. Opt for antioxidant-rich products to include in your regimen to help the skin thrive.
Click here to shop all Vitamin C products. Have a question? Send me an email.